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    November 4, 2011

    KY eats – Bebek Bengil (Dirty Duck) at Ubud, Bali

    Bebek  Bengil is one of the higher end eateries at Ubud. Located within walking distance from Monkey Forest, the restaurant spots several tastefully decorated alfresco style dining areas with paddy fields at the back.

    The place exudes class, and that was reflected in it’s price, but fortunately, also the quality of the food.

    bebek bengil, a paddy field behind the classy restaurant
    bebek bengil, a paddy field behind the classy restaurant

    Bebek Bengil (Dirty Duck Diner) was opened in 1990, and they have a little story on how the restaurant got the name

     When we were building the restaurant, we thought long and hard about a name. Many suggestions came from our friends, but none seemed just right.

    We know we wanted a Balinese name that translates well to English. However, for a long time the metaphor eluded us.

    One tropical monsoon morning, when the restaurant was very close to being finished, a flock of ducks from the rice field across the road ran quacking and squawking into the restaurant and across the floor and tables. They left the muddy webbed footprints all over the place. They were our first guests, those “Dirty Ducks”

    grilled duck with sweet chili sauce
    grilled duck with sweet chili sauce

    We ordered two main courses, Haze had the grilled duck with sweet chili sauce (85,000 IDR) that was prepared by grilling the duck with Balinese sauce and serve with steamed rice. A side of salad and the usual Balinese style chili/tomato sauce came with the dish too.

    It was sweet, spicy, and full of flavor. The portion was half a duck (duck here are generally much smaller, kampung duck?), and absolutely delightful.

    bebek bengil, the original crispy duck
    bebek bengil, the original crispy duck

    My lunch was the bebek bengil itself, the original crispy duck (82,000 IDR). It was half a duck steamed in Indonesian spices then deep fried for a crispy finish. The dish came with steamed rice (you can opt for sauteed potato)  and Balinese vegetable.

    The duck skin was absolutely crispy and delightful, there’s also undoubtedly the distinct herbal taste that has gone into the duck meat itself. It is unlike any type of roast/peking duck I’ve had, and in a sense, this was actually much better. It was a tad salty, but every bid tasty.

    and frestea is everywhere
    and frestea is everywhere

    The lunch at Bebek Bengil was easily our most expensive meal in Bali, but it was also the tastiest. While Babi Guling might be the most famous food out of Ubud, but to me, the must-try when you are at Ubud is Bebek Bengil.

    map to Bebek Bengil, Ubud

    Address:
    Bebek Bengil
    Jalan Sugriwa, Ubud, Indonesia
    GPS: -8.51681, 115.26478
    Tel: +62-361 975489

     

    November 2, 2011

    KY travels – Monkey Forest & Kopi Luwak at Ubud, Bali

    It’s time to continue documenting the remainder of my Bali trip while the memory is still somewhat fresh.

    After spending a night at Kuta and two more nights at Sanur, we moved to Ubud.

    Located at central Bali, Ubud is about one and a half hours away from Kuta on a cab, which in Balinese traffic, only covers around 35-40 kilometers.

    Night at Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud, Bali
    Night at Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud, Bali

    The most happening place in Ubud must be Jalan Monkey Forest, a street filled with many hotel/hostel/home stays, restaurants, art galleries, and touristy shops. It is a (mostly) narrow one way street with cars that travels no faster than you could jog.

    The relatively higher elevation of 200+ meters above sea level and the abundance of greenery at Ubud gave the place a slightly cooler and more pleasant temperature and than the coast.

    Sri Bungalows with lush green padi field at the back
    Sri Bungalows with lush green padi field at the back

    We checked into Sri Bungalows located on Jalan Monkey Forest and paid US $60 via agoda.com for the room that had a King size and another Twin bed. The wifi only works for one device at a time, but it won’t be a holiday if you constantly have to be on the internet, right?

    At the back of the hotel (which was a series of “bungalows” with 4 rooms each, 2 on ground & 2 on 1st floor) is a swimming pool, and next to the swimming pool are lush green paddy fields. I’m not sure if these are real farmer’s paddy fields or they’re there only for the hotel guests, but they’re sure beautiful and very relaxing just to stare at.

    artsy stuff all over Ubud
    artsy stuff all over Ubud, all for sale

    All along Jalan Monkey Forest and a few streets around it, there are art shops. Many many art shops. Ubud is the art and crafts hub of Bali, and it may as well be the art & crafts hub of South East Asia. Throw a stone in any direction at this place and chances are you’ll hit a painting.

    You can find art pieces from from 100,000 IDR cheap paintings to works done by famous Indonesian artists that fetches a small fortune.

    monkey forest at Ubud, the prime tourist attraction
    monkey forest at Ubud, the prime tourist attraction

    Monkey Forest (naturally located at Jalan Monkey Forest), also known as the Sacred Monkey Forest of Padangtegal, is a sanctuary with over 500 long-tailed macaques roaming about in the forest among the trees and temples.

    mom, elder sibling, and baby monkeys
    mom, elder sibling, and baby monkeys

    Entrance to Monkey Forest is 20,000 IDR (exchange rate was at 10,000 IDR to 3.40 MYR at time of travel). You get a small guide map and plenty of advertisements. There are 2-3 entrances into the sanctuary, and ticket counters are right next to each of them.

    There are villagers selling bananas, peanuts, and other fruits you can purchase to feed the primates.

    obviously these westerners were braver than me with the monkeys
    obviously these Australians were braver than me with the monkeys

    It doesn’t take more than an hour or so to explore the entire Monkey Forest. There were certainly a lot of monkeys, and some of them quite daring too if food is presence. Fortunately, the monkeys are non aggressive for the most part.

    I didn’t dare letting these tailed cousins sit on my lap or climb on me, but some of these Aussie tourists were more daring. (I still remember how hard the monkey bit me while filming for Project Alpha at Tambun, luckily its teeth were filed)

    and I tried the famous cafe Lewak, Haze thought it was gross
    and I tried the famous cafe Luwak, Haze thought it was gross

    We also stopped by a Bali Pesto Cafe along Jalan Monkey Forest cos they serve Kopi Luwak. For those who are not familiar with this special type of coffee, do read:

    Kopi luwak, or civet coffee, is one of the world’s most expensive and low-production varieties of coffee. It is made from the beans of coffee berries which have been eaten by the Asian Palm Civet (Paradoxurus hermaphroditus) and other related civets, then passed through its digestive tract.

    More about that in the wiki entry of Kopi Lewak.

    This cup of kopi luwak cost me 46,000 IDR including tax, which translate to something like 1.5 cups of Starbucks.

    I had it black and did not add any sugar, and true to its reputation, the coffee wasn’t very bitter and carry a pleasant aroma. It pretty nice coffee, but I don’t see the what the hype is about though.

    Then again, I couldn’t be 100% sure that the coffee they served me was in fact, kopi luwak. Will try it again next time. :D

    how you transport chicken in Bali
    this is how you transport chicken in Bali

    And after that 3 dogs on motorcycle photo in the last picture of Kuta post, I shall end this post with a photo of this chicken transporter Haze managed to shoot while we were riding on the rental motorbike around Ubud.

    filed under Indonesia, Travel
    October 19, 2011

    KY eats – Ibu Oka Babi Guling, Bali

    While Bali isn’t exactly a dining destination, there are several “must eat” places on the island. One of them is Ibu Oka’s Babi Guling at Ubud, partly made famous by Anthony Bourdain, the person whose job I wouldn’t mind swapping with.

    Babi Guling Ibu Oka at Ubud, Bali
    the new branch of Babi Guling Ibu Oka at Ubud, Bali

    For those unfamiliar with this dish, Babi Guling literally translate to “rolling pig”, and has it’s name taken from the way the pig is prepared – by puttin the smallish pig on a stick and keep rolling it over coconut husk fire. The pig must previously be stuffed with shallots, garlic, galangal, lemon grass and dried shrimp, among other things. This is to add flavor while removing any pungent “pork” smell.

    2 sets of bali guling with rice
    2 sets of bali guling with rice

    We visited the branch of the original Ibu Oka Babi Guling, a cleaner and bigger place with proper table and a much airy environment.

    One reason I choose this location at Jalan Raya Desa Mas is that we had passed the restaurant on the way to Ubud and hence I knew how to get there, and secondly, the original place has been written to death and there is no need for yet another article for it, I suppose.

    soup, rice, and the chili paste with a kick
    soup, rice, and the chili paste with a kick

    We arrived there at around noon on a weekday, the place had a healthy stream of diners, but no huge crowd as you would find at the original warung.

    We ordered a set with rice, vegetable, pork roll, fried meat, sausage, and pork skin for IDR 30,000 and another set with rice, “complete meat”, and soup for IDR 50,000.

    and yes, fanta remains very popular at Bali
    and yes, fanta remains very popular at Bali

    To be honest, I can’t tell what the fuss is about. The meal turned out to be very average for me (but in the case of Bali, above average), the meat was a little too gamy and still carry a bit of pungent smell. The skin was too tough, the sausage too is something I wouldn’t order again, it was a bit too “unrefined”. Our roast pork and Chinese sausage triumph this any day.

    That being said, the soup was rather tasty, and with a bit of their spicy chili paste, the combination of meat and rice was decent too.

    Still, all that hype, it was a bit of a let down.

    Perhaps the next time around I”ll try the main branch to see if there’s any difference, but for now, babi guling isn’t one of my must-eat item at Ubud, but I’ll still eat it if it wasn’t out of the way.

    Address:
    Babi Guling Ibu Oka 2
    Jalan Raya Desa Mas,
    Ubud, Bali 80571
    Indonesia
    GPS: -8.530454, 115.271631

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