Tag / loh-mee
Having spent most of my time in KL and Penang, it is easy to have a false sense of perception on how much street food costs. A “standard” plate of hawker dish is supposed to be around RM 4.50 or RM 5.00, no?
Then we went to Sitiawan.
hawker center at Sitiawan wet market
This was a day trip I took earlier this year with Suanie via Kuala Selangor (where we stumbled upon the famous Cendol Bakar).
Not knowing where to eat at Sitiawan, we stopped by the wet marker in the afternoon and was happy to see the food stall in operation. A closer look revealed that most dishes are priced at RM 2.80 per serving!
loh mee & “kan lau” mee
I ordered the loh mee while Suan had a plate of their “kan lau” mee. They also serve asam laksa, wantan mee, and clear soup noodle at the same price.
My loh mee was actually rather delicious. It came with a lot of bamboo shoots which I love, and the starchy soup base was flavorful. Suan’s kan lau mee came with a few slices of charsiu, while they’re not exactly very good quality charsiu, it still made a decent plate of brunch.
Suan and KY enjoying tea time
If you’re around Lumut or Sitiawan looking for a place for late lunch/tea time snack, this is one of the places to check out and stay within budget.
Sitiawan Wet Market
GPS: 4.216096, 101.697822
Tua Pek Kong temple at Sitiawan
Oh, we also went to perhaps one of the only tourist attractions at Sitiawan – the Tua Pek Kong temple at Jalan Psasir Panjang.
The temple is located by the coast and spots some pretty impressive statues facing the Melaccan straits. There’s also a path where you can walk into the swamp area, a koi pond with loads of fish, and a beautiful garden there.
Like most temple in Malaysia, you don’t have to be a Buddhist to visit.
Tua Pek Kong Temple
Jalan Pasir Panjang,
GPS: 4.163129, 100.688397
On my last trip back to Penang, I caught up with my sister for late lunch, and since she is a lot more well versed with Penang food than me (not having stayed on the island the past 20 years), I naturally asked her to suggest a place.
We ended up at Hai Beng kopitiam for some good old fashion Hainan Lor Mee (卤面)
Hai Beng kopitiam at Pulau Tikus, Penang
Situated at the junction of Jones Road and Burma Road, Hai Beng kopitiam is a typical Chinese run coffee shop that serves breakfast and lunch with a variety of hawker stalls, including the lor mee and a Malay nasi kandar stall which is rather popular (another post on another day).
Parking isn’t too hard to come by, and with plenty of trees around the premise, the restaurant is rather comfortable too.
plenty of extra ingredients for your choosing
The Lor Mee has been around since the independence of the country, and offers many add ons if you crave for extra porky goodness. This includes lor bak (卤肉), pig’s ear, 3-layer pork, pork knuckle, intestine, and so forth.
wholesome loh mee, we added some pork skin
For lunch, we ordered lor mee with pork skin. It comes with the usual ingredients of noodle and meehun, bean sprouts, pork slices, hard boiled eggs, and those thick, flavorful gravy. Splash some home made chili sauce and fresh garlic paste and you have a bowl of awesome hawker delights worthy of instagram, and your stomach.
Unlike most hawker stalls that offers lor mee in conjunction with Hokkien mee (also known as prawn mee), this stall specialized only on lor mee, all for RM 4 (small), and RM 5.50 (big). Of course, you pay a bit more for additional ingredients.
Now, I need to find a good version in KL.
Hainan Lor Mee
Kedai Kopi Hai Beng
Jones Road & Burma Road, Penang
It’s pretty much a truce that Penang offers one of the best hawker foods anywhere, you almost plan up a whole weeks’ itinerary filled with different hawker foods and never have to visit the same place twice. The problem is, what if you only have a day?
Well, to make your life simpler, here’s 5 different places you could visit in a single day to sample some of the best from Penang. Food portions on the island is usually not too big, so 5 meals a day is just about right for anyone with a normal appetite. For extra credit, you can always fit in another couple meals in between.
Ah Hai kuih teow soup at Kim Lee kopitiam
Breakfast starts at Kim Lee kopitiam. Ah Hai’s kuih teow soup starts at around 7:30 am and would operate around 3pm. The kuih teow soup here offers bouncy home made fish ball, delicious fish cake, slices of duck meat, and most importantly, coagulated duck blood, as the original recipe calls for.
This place has been in existence for some 60 years, and still offers one of the best kuih teow th’ng there is on the island.
Ah Hai kuih teow soup | Kedai Makanan Kim Lee, Lorong Macalister, Penang | 7:30 am to 3 pm
char kuih teow at Dato’ Keramat – Ah Leng’s
For lunch, we continue keep our focus on kuih teow, but this time the fried version – the all important Penang char kuih teow.
While the two stalls at Lorong Selamat gets all the glitz and glamour, I find Ah Leng char kuih teow at Dato’ Keramat a more than worthy alternative. The fried kuih teow here has the customary huge prawns, lard, chives, duck egg, and for extras – mantis prawns (for RM 11 per plate). Pure ecstasy for those who loves this signature Penang dish.
Ah Leng char kuih teow | Kafe Khoon Hiang, 358 Jalan Dato Keramat, 10150 Penang | 8:30 am to 2:30 pm, closed on Thursdays
famous Balik Pulau laksa near the market
From Dato’ Keramat, drive up to Ayer Itam and through Payer Terubong to where the best laksa is found at Nang Guang kopitiam, Balik Pulau.
The asam laksa here comes in two different varieties, the usual asam style, and the richer lemak style, which is closer to the traditional Nyonya recipe. Neither would disappoint even the harshest laksa critics. The soup is flavorful and packed with fish meat, even the prawn paste has an extra kick to it.
If you’re to pack some for the journey back to Klang Valley (or anywhere else), they do it rather professionally with soup, prawn paste, and main ingredients all packed separately.
Balik Pulau Laksa | Nan Guang kopitiam, 67, Jalan Balik Pulau, 11000, Balik Pulau, Penang | Hours: morning to late lunch
mixed pork porridge at New Lane
In the evening, make your way back from Balik Pulau to the city center and stop by New Lane for something that isn’t readily associated with Penang – mixed pork porridge.
This is another stall that has been in business for decades and is still going strong as ever. A bowl of mixed pork porridge comes with delicious crispy intestine, pork tongue, slices of char siu, some spring onion, and pepper. Pretty simple list of ingredients, but one that tickles just the right spots on the tongue.
Pork Intestine Porridge (Chee Cheong Chock) | New Lane, Georgetown, Penang | Hours: from 6 pm till midnight
Green House hokkien mee and loh mee at Jalan Burma
For supper, head up just a few hundred meters to the East of New Lane to find the original Green House prawn mee stall at Jalan Burma.
This prawn mee and loh mee stall offers many ingredients you don’t typically find – home made fish ball, meat ball, sausage, pork skin, chicken feet, instine, and more can be added as extras to the prawn mee/loh mee for extra kicks. By default, they come with pork slices, prawns, hard boiled egg, fried shallots, and chili paste.
Green House hokkien mee | Jalan Burma, Georgetown, Penang (Opposite Chew Thean Yeang Aquarium) | Hours: dinner till late
Of course, I’ve missed out many other hawker stalls that are “must tries”, but if you have only 24 hours to go, this list should not disappoint. Happy eating!
To those who loves a good bowl of Loh Mee, Ulu Yam is undoubtedly what springs in mind. For those who has never heard about Ulu Yam, it is sort of a half way point between KL and Fraser Hill, within Batang Kali.
You can also go to Genting via Ulu Yam if you’re the sort who enjoys a bit of spirited driving on winding roads with good scenery, though the journey takes quite a bit longer (and further) compared to the standard toll way.
Swee Yen restaurant at Ulu Yam Lama
A couple weekends ago Haze and I had a little getaway at Fraser’s Hill, and since I have yet to try the famous loh mee, we decided to do just that on a pit stop before heading back to KL.
The only problem about finding Loh Mee in Ulu Yam is that.. which one?! It is almost like the case of Klang bak kut teh or Ampang yong tau foo where a relatively small area is littered with several outlets offering essentially the same thing, you have to know which one to choose.
There were different recommendations from Garmin GPS, Google Maps, and blogs. I settled on Kim’s blog entry. If it’s good enough for her mom, it will be good enough for me.
glorious lor mee, look at the lard!
Since there were just two of us, we ordered a bowl of Loh Mee for two and a lala with superior soup as side order.
The Loh Mee were huge (I think people Ulu Yam must eat only 1 meal a day or something), and true to the reputation, it was fantastic!
There’s a pretty strong taste of vinegar in the thick soup but in a good way. There were also bits of fried lard, some prawns, and meat to complete the dish. It’s easily one of the best Central style Loh Mee I’ve tried.
lala in superior soup
Then there’s the lala in superior soup. This too didn’t come in a small dish, and would probably be a serving for 4 in KL. The shellfish were quite big and juicy, with the superior soup carrying a kick thanks to the addition of chili padi and a healthy dose of ginger with plenty of coriander.
check out the huge portion of lor mee
It was definitely a very satisfying lunch and we didn’t even manage to finish everything, the servings were just too big.
The bill came to RM 33 for everything, including drinks too. Glad that crazy inflation hasn’t hit small town as bad yet. I’m gonna go there again next time and order terrapin!
Swee Yen Restaurant
No 38, Jalan Besar, Ulu Yam Lama,
43300 Batang Kali,
Selangor Darul Ehsan
GPS: 3.4546, 101.64073
Tel: 03-6075 1123, 012-360 4837
One of my favorite hawker foods from Penang not called char kueh teow would be prawn mee and loh mee. While the those two dishes are related (as served by places such as Mee Yoke), classic Penang loh mee actually do differs from prawn mee in several ways.
a bowl of classic loh mee in an old school kopitiam
The most obvious distinction between loh mee and prawn mee would be the soup. Instead of prawn shell and pork based soup, the soup for loh mee is a gooey broth made from starch and beaten eggs. The chili paste/sauce used for loh mee too is often more fluid, and vinegared garlic is often available as another condiment to add to the taste. Hard boiled egg and pork too are standard with loh mee.
One of my favorite loh mee stalls in Penang would be at Hai Beng kopitiam located just right next to the Goddess of Mercy Temple (Kuan Yin Teng) in Penang.
pork skin, intestine, hard boiled egg, fried shallots, prawns. yums!
The loh mee here is a s classic as you can get. I love mine with pork skin, meat, and intestine to go with the standard ingredients of hard boiled egg, boiled prawns (prawn mee style), fried shallots, bean sprouts, noodle and mee hun. A good dosage of vinegared garlic and chili paste is essential too.
The smooth texture of the soup combined with the taste of pork and complexity added from the condiments makes it a very satisfying breakfast or late afternoon dish especially if you pair it with a good old fashion Penang black iced coffee.
Hai Beng Kopitiam is located next to Kuan Ying Ting (Goddess of Mercy Temple)
The loh mee goes for RM 3.50 (small), and RM 5.00 (big). Of course, extra charges for extra ingredients. If I remember correctly, the bowl I had was something like RM 4.50?
Now I’m really hungry.
Hai Beng Kopitiam