Category / Hawkers
To be honest, I found out about the beef noodle at Lai Foong kopitam relatively recently via instagram posts of some friends I follow. Perhaps a bit of an embarrassment for someone who love street food, but better late than never, right?
Lai Foong kopitiam, Jalan Tun H S Lee
Located at Jalan Tun H. S. Lee (just across the entrance of Petaling Street), Lai Foong is wedged in some of the busiest areas in downtown KL. Parking is non existence, but luckily for those on motorcycle on a weekday morning, situation isn’t nearly as bleak. Another proof that motorcycle is the best invention of all time!
a selection of beefy goodness
The beef noodle stalls does open for business bright and early (by 8 am or so) and all throughout lunch time. A bowl with everything will cost RM 10 but does include pretty much every part that you can expect, including beef slices, tripe, intestine, beef ball, and my favorite – tendon. Every part was tender, with the tendon having the perfect consistency that isn’t chewy nor it is overly hard.
flank, beef, intestine, tendon, take your pick of have them all
The soup base is light yet flavorful, with a hint of soya sauce base yet having enough depth to satisfy. The chili sauce provided too does its job well and did not disappoint.
The beef noodle at Lai Foong certainly live up to its reputation, and has definitely earned yours truly as a customer who’d come back again.
Lai Foong kopitiam
138, Jalan Tun H S Lee,
50050 Kuala Lumpur
GPS: 3.145424, 101.696846
Tel: 03-2072 8123
One of the harder thing to do when it comes to food is to have an open mind, of not having a preconception of reputation and who “should” be able to produce what sort of cuisine best. It is something that I personally struggle with from time to time, for example, I’d order Penang char kuih teow in Klang Valley using Penang style Hokkien, casting a doubt whenever they fail to reply in the same accent.
So you can imagine that I had my doubts when approaching this rather busy joint operated by three foreigners (Burmese perhaps?) just off Jalan Pasar in KL.
Jalan Seladang off Jalan Pasar, next to RHB
After riding past the area a few times on my way to Pudu, I thought I give it a try since it looked rather busy every single time I paid attention to it.
As it turns out, this little yellow stall a stone’s throw away from the famous Chen Chen Roast Goose offers fish head meehun.
Unlike fancier places like B & Best (one of my favorite joints), the options here are simple, “soong fish head” (RM 7) or garupa fish head (RM 13), and the choice of noodle.
For both my visits, I picked meehun to go with the different types of fish. The portion were pretty decent, and the fish did tasted rather fresh, but above all, the execution were simple yet on point, with a good soup base, copious amount of parsley, just the right amount of fried garlic and raw ginger to make a very enjoyable bowl of fish head noodle.
fish head noodle with “soong fish”
If I didn’t sit there and see these guys cook it, I’d have thought this was prepared by some old Chinese uncle with 30 years experience.
Sometimes suspending our preconception can bring about good surprises.
Fish Head Meehun
Jalan Seladang off Jalan Pasar
55100 Kuala Lumpur
GPS: 3.135574, 101.715417
While having one of my favorite wantan mee at Lucky Garden a couple weeks back, a slightly older Sikh gentleman politely asked to share the table, which of course I agreed. As usual, my breakfast was then accompanied by a single serving side dish of stranger conversation.
Pudu wet market, KL
It was during this exchange that the I was told about his favorite curry chee cheong fun place at Pudu wet market, and how all his decade old ex-classmates drools over the pictures on WhatsApp group chat whenever he posts them. So naturally, I decide to pay a visit to see what this is all about on the very next day.
It was actually my first time to the Pudu wet market, and to be honest I wasn’t really prepared by how big, busy, noisy, wet, and smelly this place is. This may turn off quite a few people, but I thought it brought a sense of nostalgia and live to the city. I kinda liked it, but if you drive there, do try to park some distance away instead of barging through the super congested streets surrounding the market.
curry chee cheong fun stall, Pudu Market
The curry chee cheong fun stall is right next to the Northern part of the wet market building and manned by a lady. You can ask for pure curry chee cheong fun (RM 2 for small portion, as in pic), or if you so fancy, add some yong tau foo pieces.
And yes, the curry chee cheong fun was on a league of its own, the curry has a bit of that kurma aroma to it which is rather distinctive, while also being a lot thicker than most. On top of that, there’s these little crunchy bits they put on top of those perfectly soft & smooth chee cheong fun. It was all well balanced and very, very satisfying.
curry chee cheong fun goes great with yau char kuai
My experience that morning was made more memorable by yet another stranger who came and shared table, this time another single serving conversation which ended up with the kind stranger offering me half a yau char kuai to go with my leftover curry sauce. Match made in heaven.
Curry Chee Cheong Fun
Jalan Pasar Baharu
GPS: 3.134275, 101.715213
Kuih Teow Soup is one of those Penang hawker food that receive very little attention in Klang Valley, and I believe this is mostly due to the fact that pork noodle and the KL style fishball noodle (very subtle differences) serves most of the same demographic that gravitates towards this type of dishes.
do re mi kopitiam at Ara Damansara
Here’s the subtle differences in these three types of noodle soup, even though their broth are all clear and choice of noodle is usually kuih teow (flat rice noodle):
- pork noodle – major ingredients of pork slices, innards, and even pork balls, sometimes you get to add poached egg, no bean sprouts
- KL style fish ball noodle – fish ball, fish cake, bean sprout, mustard green
- Penang kuih teow soup – fish ball, fish cake, chicken/pork/duck meat slices, bean sprouts, sometimes with coagulated duck/chicken blood, spring onion
So in essence, kuih teow soup has a more complex taste when compared to plain old fish ball noodle, while being not as savory and heavy as pork noodle.
For a proper bowl of Penang kuih teow soup in Klang Valley, my favorite at the moment is the hawker stall at Do Re Mi kopitiam at Ara Damansara. It is one of the very few places in town that serves kuih teow soup with duck meat. Duck meat is an ingredient that you don’t often find in hawker dishes in KL, I suppose mostly due to cost, and perhaps lesser appreciation from the public.
kuih teow th’ng, with duck meat
If you’re a fan of kuih teow soup in it’s proper form, this is surely a place to check out. Let me know if you have other favorites of yours to share.
Restaurant DoReMi 123
Jalan PJU 1a/20b
Petaling Jaya, Selangor
GPS: 3.119897, 101.579194
For those who loved the old first generation Jalan Batai char kuih teow (Damansara Height’s Seng Lee kopitiam) back in the days, you’re in luck! You can now find the original uncle manning the stall at Sen Kee White Coffee kopitiam at Taman Sri Muda, Shah Alam.
Sen Kee White Coffee at Taman Sri Muda, Shah Alam
I was first informed about this place by another ckt seeking friend who originated from Penang. Naturally, I decided to check it out the very next day.
According to the operator, he’s been operating at this location for about two months now, while his daughter is still running the show at the previous place.
char kuih teow with duck egg
Like any proper char kuih teow places, they serve only char kuih teow and nothing else, but you do get a choice between normal chicken egg, or my usual choice when available – duck egg.
The CKT was just as I remembered, plenty of wok hei, with pretty decent size prawns for Klang Valley standard, and all the necessary ingredients such as bean sprouts, cockles, and chives. However, in replacement of lap cheong, you get fish cakes, which is something that’s not 100% ideal but acceptable in my book.
So for those of you who used to love a proper plate of char kuih teow from the uncle who used to operate at Jalan Batai, this is a place to go. There’s also a second generation Batai CKT now at Klang for anyone who’s curious.
do you recognise this char kuih teow uncle?
Sen Kee White Coffee
33, Jalan Mewah 25/63,
Taman Sri Muda,
40400 Shah Alam, Selangor
GPS: 3.030874, 101.535499